Tailoring Design Process

Research, design, selection, development, and Delivery

Research: Finding my consumer a women ages 20s to 30s, looking for fall/winter outerwear. Research included making a mood board to make sure that this aesthetic is right from my consumer.

Concept and Design: Making initial sketches and tech flats to develop and refine ideas. These included callouts for fabric type and design details i.e.. welted pockets, removable collar, etc. and finalizing on silhouette.

Sourcing Materials: Ordering a multitude of sample to narrow down on exact fiber, pattern, texture, and color desired. While also taking into account cost and quality for the end product. Final materials were purchased at Mood Fabrics in NYC. The faux fur was purchased at target, originally a faux fur cowl that was redesigned into a removable collar.

Samples: Flat patterning the first draft, while working out problems with multiple muslin samples, issues in sizing issues and fit.

Development/Production: The final draft included a thin inner layer of fusible interfacing to stiffen the fabric and stopped the weave from shifting while matching up lines of the plaid wool material. A layer of horse hair was added to give the jacket a sharp crisp look allowing the coat to hang correctly. The horse hair was added using a technique called pad stitching, this diagonal stitching to add shape and body. Along the lapel there is a roll line enforced with twill tape to allow it to roll properly with no pull. Smaller pad stitching was also used on the lapel. I chose to use a solid navy wool fabric on the collar and lapel to compliment the checked wool. The jacket is double breasted, with two angled welt pockets, and lined with a navy polyester satin. The removable fur collar is also lined with navy polyester satin and comes on and off with elastic loops and buttons

Final Product:

Delivery: Tailored coat (pictured below) at Mount Mary Fashion Show.